Dermarolling: What You Need to Know

Let’s be real, there’s no such thing as perfect skin. However, plenty of innovation in the beauty industry helps us get pretty dang close. If you’re like me and you struggle with hyperpigmentation and acne scars, you might have considered dermarolling. Before you go on a late night, impulsive Amazon shopping spree in a desperate frenzy, let’s go over what dermarolling does for you.

What is Dermarolling?

Dermarolling is a form of microneedling where you take a small, barrel-shaped tool with over 100 micro-needles and roll it all over your face. The length of these needles can stretch anywhere between 0.25 mm and 2 mm in length. They’re used to help reduce hypertrophic acne scars, even skin tone, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. They do this by puncturing tiny holes in your skin that trigger a boost in collagen production. Its roots can be traced back to Acupuncture from China, but the modern dermaroller design was invented in 2006 by Dr. Des Fernandes, a South African plastic surgeon (Bahuguna, 2013).

How It’s Used

Dermarolling at Home

First and foremost, you need to understand that dermarolling and microneedling is best done by professional dermatologists. Trained professionals know what to avoid, and the treatment is most effective when in the hands of an expert. 

How To Use it at Home

  1. Start with a clean face.
  2. Sterilize the roller with 70% isopropyl alcohol for at least 15 minutes.
    1. This is an IMPORTANT step in the routine. Doing this prevents your skin from getting infected with bacteria.
  3. Roll on the skin with medium pressure.
    1. Focus on the areas you have issues with. Roll vertically, horizontally, and diagonally 10-15 times each.
  4. After rolling, sterilize the roller again.
    1. You want to keep it clean when you store it.
  5. Apply face oils, serums, and/or a sheet mask afterward for better results.
    1. If you want to maximize the efficiency of your dermarolling sesh, look for products with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, fatty acids, and antibacterial properties. These will help your skin heal, promote collagen production, and keep it from getting infected. All good things if you ask me!

What to Avoid After Dermarolling at Home

Be aware that now that you’ve done the procedure, your skin is verrryyy sensitive. Dermarolling boosts “transdermal absorption of all topical products” (Misumi Skincare), so while some products will help your skin look better, there are other things that could make it look way worse. Avoid these things to allow your skin to recover:

  1. Chemical exfoliates.
    - Will irritate your skin, and burn like crazy!
  2. Makeup
    - Do you really want your Fenty highlighter in your skin?
  3. Comedogenic Products
    - Even without dermarolling, comedogenic products will clog your pores. Nobody wants that.

We recommend trying our titular camellia oil as a topical post-treatment for any dermarolling sesh. It contains antioxidants like Vitamin A, B, D, and E that help fight off free radicals that cause harm to your skin, and it’s been proven to boost collagen production and cell turnover. Combined with the transdermal effectiveness of dermarolling, camellia oil is a great way to achieve desirable results.

SEE MORE: Camellia Oil: The Key to a Better Skincare Routine


Dermarolling by a Professional

If you decide to go in for treatment, this is what it’s normally like:

  1. The face is cleaned and prepped with anesthesia
    - Depending on the treatment you’re getting, the needles may vary in size to best attack your concerns. So if you end up getting the large needles, don’t worry so much about the pain! They’ll apply a topical anesthetic for you.
  2. The affected area is rolled over 15-20 times in different directions.
    - This is where the needles poke your skin and tell it to produce collagen 
  3. Afterwards, they apply saline or ice to reduce discomfort.

It’s recommended you wait a minimum of 6 weeks between treatment, as this is the normal amount of time it takes for collagen to do its thing (Doddaballapur, 2009).

The Takeaway

Dermarolling is renowned for its ability to improve your complexion, and fast. The DIY version can be effective for some, but for safer, better, and even faster results, definitely try going to a professional. If you’re struggling with skin problems--and we all do--take dermarolling into consideration. 


References

Bahuguna, Amit. “Micro Needling - Facts and Fictions.” Asian Journal of Medical Sciences, vol.
4, no. 3, 2013, pp. 1–4., doi:10.3126/ajms.v4i3.5392.

Doddaballapur, Satish. “Microneedling with Dermaroller.” Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic
Surgery, vol. 2, no. 2, 2009, p. 110., doi:10.4103/0974-2077.58529.

“What to Use Before and After Dermaroller.” Misumi Luxury Beauty Care,
misumiskincare.com/blogs/news/what-to-use-before-and-after-dermaroller.

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